A pyramidal peak on the Great Divide, acting as a tri-boundary anchor for the headwaters of the Bow River (via Paradise Valley), the Kicking Horse River (via Lake O’Hara), and the Vermilion River (via Prospectors Valley). Mount Hungabee (3,492 m; prominence ~987 m) sits at the junction of Banff National Park (Alberta) and Yoho National Park (British Columbia). To the north lie Mount Lefroy and Mount Victoria; to the west, the Opabin Plateau; to the east, Paradise Valley.

Naming. “Hungabee” (Stoney Nakoda for “Chieftain” or “Chief”) was applied in 1894 by Samuel Allen, who mapped the Lake Louise area and named the Valley of the Ten Peaks. The peak stood higher and more rugged than its neighbors, presiding over them like a leader.

First ascent (1903). Herschel C. Parker, guided by the Swiss brothers Hans and Christian Kaufmann, made the first ascent on 21 July 1903. Hungabee was then one of the “last great problems” of the Rockies; its steepness on all sides demanded technical rock work. On the summit ridge, Christian Kaufmann reportedly leaped across a severe gap in the arête to secure a rope for the others. Parker wrote: “The grim old Chieftain was conquered.”

Climbing. The West Ridge (5.4 / PD+) is deceptive; Hungabee is widely considered one of the most serious standard 11,000er routes. Approach from the Opabin Plateau (Lake O’Hara side) via Opabin Pass. The mountain is infamous for choss (loose, unstable rock); sedimentary layers are poorly bonded, and holds can detach instantly. Rockfall from other parties is a lethal hazard. Route-finding is non-trivial; wandering off-route often leads to unclimbable precipices. Among the 11,000ers, Hungabee requires soft steps, constant vigilance, and solid judgment.

Geology. Cambrian limestone, dolomite, and shale. Its glacial-horn shape was created by headward erosion from three cirques (Paradise Valley, Opabin Plateau, Prospectors Valley). Dark banding is visible; steepness prevents large snowfields, leaving rotting rock exposed. The erosion that gives it a striking profile also makes it dangerous; the mountain is shedding constantly.

Vantage points. Best at sunrise or sunset when alpenglow catches the summit. Opabin Prospect frames Hungabee over larch and tarns. From Wiwaxy Gap or Lake Oesa (above Lake O’Hara), the north face looks impenetrable. From the Giant Steps in Paradise Valley, the east face appears darker and more foreboding.

Access. Lake O’Hara: Parks Canada shuttle (random draw for reservations); private vehicles banned on the 11 km access road. Paradise Valley: trailhead via Moraine Lake Road (private vehicles banned as of 2023; Parks Canada shuttle, Roam Transit, or bicycle required).